How are ocean waves created?

The ocean is never still. Whether observing from the beach or a boat, we expect to see waves on the horizon. Waves are created by energy passing through water, causing it to move in a circular motion. However, water does not actually travel in waves. read more

Although certain waves called tsunamis can be created by underwater earthquakes, most waves result from the work of wind on the ocean 's surface. Through the forces of friction and pressure, wind transfers energy to the surface of the sea, creating first ripples and eventually the swells we call waves. In any group of waves, there will be several peaks called crests that are separated by low points called troughs. Scientists measure several aspects of waves. read more

Wind-driven waves, or surface waves, are created by the friction between wind and surface water. As wind blows across the surface of the ocean or a lake, the continual disturbance creates a wave crest. These types of waves are found globally across the open ocean and along the coast. read more

Waves start out in the deep, open ocean as relatively vertical in shape, Presnell said. As a wave travels toward the shore, though, the bottom part of the wave drags along the ocean floor. The upper part of the wave above the water line starts to move faster than the rest of the wave. read more